FFG Eats: Beck at Brown’s

If you are a fan of Italian food, there’s a new eatery in London that needs to be on your radar. Every true foodie will be familiar with Heinz Beck’s La Pergola, the three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome, and said restaurant will most certainly be on your bucket list. It’s certainly been on mine for years. However, as a Londoner, I have finally been given a chance to tuck into Beck’s food right here in the Big Smoke. 

Last year Heinz Beck had a popup with Brown’s Hotel and the rumour mill instantly started churning. Would this be something that could lead to a permanent space? Would this be a annual return for a short residency? Then the news dropped. Brown’s was in fact opening the latest Heinz Beck restaurant, simply named “Beck.” On April 16th, they swung open their doors to the public for the first time with fresh interiors designed by Olga Polizzi and a menu that featured Italian recipes from up and down the boot shaped country, using the finest British produce in the London kitchen. The end result is a menu that reads like a symphony of sensational tastes. 

From Insalate and Antipasti to Pesce and Carne, this is a dining experience that can be as quick as you need it to be, or stretch out into a four course marathon of fantastic flavours.

I was invited in to try lunch at Beck and, naturally, asked for suggestions on what to order. If you don’t do this… you are missing out. Can I suggest you always make this a habit in the future when you are eating in a fine restaurant? Wait staff know every dish, every specialty and hear ever comment about every forkful of food as the day goes on. I find they always point me in the right direction and they were ever so helpful at Beck. I was told I couldn’t miss the crab chips to start, alongside an Aperol Spritz. I was instantly transported to Rome. The next course was a spring vegetable salad and Fagotelli Carbonara. This is Carbonara like you’ve never experienced before and would almost be impossible to describe. I’ll simply say it’s like a ravioli with an exploding Carbonara tucked within. Truly, nothing can prepare you for this dish, but I insist you order it. You’ll want to order your own. I made the mistake of sharing with my guest. I could have eaten two portions as my main. I wanted more, more more. 

We moved onto mains and went for a meaty finish with Soya Marinated Filet of Beef and Oven Roasted Leg of Lamb. If you’ve never experienced meat melting in your mouth, this is the place to make it happen. Both dishes were cooked to perfection and served with the perfect accompaniments. 

In short, get yourself over to Beck at Brown’s and book a table immediately. It’s great for special occasions, business meetings or simply a personal indulgence on any given day. I’d say book quickly. Reservations are already filling up quite steadily and it’s only going to get tougher to squeeze in as news of this new foodie heaven spreads. 


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