As I walked out of Christopher Kane‘s autumn winter 2013 show this morning, my head actually hurt. Don’t get me wrong, it wasn’t the quality of the collection that was causing the headache, but rather the thought that I would have no earthly idea of how to even start this review. There was so much presented on today’s catwalk. There were so many looks and ideas that I felt as if I was watching a design retrospective. Each and every piece was clearly the brainchild of Christopher Kane, but there were just so many. I couldn’t help but think how, as a designer, so many ideas are sketched and then given life each season. The process itself must be completely exhausting for any designer, let along a designer outfitting over 50 models for one show.
Truly, the pictures will tell the better tale here of how the collection jumped from camouflage and fur to velvet and sheers and then then on to knits, that must have been inspired by Christopher Kane’s own headaches in releasing this collection. This was, after all, Kane’s first collection since selling a 51% stake in his company to PPR. Francois-Henri Pinault must have been looking on proudly at his new investment as model after model marched out with merchandise. He sat alongside a rather a-list front row which included partner Salma Hayek, Donatella Versace and Anna Wintour. Yes, all the big players were there to witness Christopher Kane making history, and history he did make.
There were hundreds of supporters who sat alongside a runway that seemed to endlessly twist and turn, allowing for one of the longest front rows I’ve ever come across. Cameras clicked, iPhones snapped and social media went mad capturing it all in real time. If one were to judge the collection based purely on the hype created over social media, Kane would surely come out a winner. However, with or without the flurry of tweets, this was a collection worthy of a standing ovation from the crowd. Kane may have sold a good chunk of his business but he has certainly not “sold out” as a creative talent in doing so.