Frida Giannini has done it again and this time I was sitting right smack in the middle of the arena watching the gladiators of fashion at play. If anyone could win the apparel battle for autumn winter, it’s definitely Gucci as they come to the table with the best weapons in the form of moody and dramatic garments and only the best super models showing them off!
The music, the lighting, the velvet benches and the heavy velvet-covered invites set the scene for a show to remember this season. Anna Dello Russo may have been sitting front row wearing a funky hat and a nearly naked Gucci ensemble but not even that could distract from the dramatic scene on the runway. It was dark and stormy but sexy and original. One couldn’t help but feel as if Frida knew something about the future that the rest of us don’t as her looks made me think her women were readying themselves for rough times ahead. That isn’t to say they won’t be elegantly dressed for the occasion as velvet, fabulous sheer blouses and full on fur coats were all seen on the runway this season. And anyone that ever tells you floral is fun and flirty hasn’t witnessed the genius of Frida Giannini for Gucci! Her floral patterns ran throughout (reminding me of Gucci’s famous Flora) and it did not lighten in the mood in the slightest but rather intensified the dark and dramatic weight of the collection.
There was so much going on with this catwalk that at times I found it hard to tweet the trends as I sat watching model after model walk out sporting different looks that seemed to flow together like a finely tuned orchestra. We saw it all for statements – low rise trousers, military, romanticism, androgyny, prints, puff sleeves, knee length hemlines and on and on… Maybe it was the dark colours that kept it all in tune or perhaps it was the fact that the Gucci girls were less sex appeal and more “ready to battle” that had all looks running on the same wavelength. And it must be noted that it is a brave designer indeed who sends a full length cape resembling a Maid Marion garment down the catwalk. However, as we exited the show I heard women talking about being converted to the idea of a cape because of this very item of clothing. This is the power of Gucci and Frida!
As we moved onto the evening wear I found even this came with a hard edge to it. My favourite look of the show was the green velvet deep v-neck pattered dress which seemed to be one of the most flattering cuts for velvet I have ever seen! It was a beacon of light in a show of dark shades. And what came next would have any fashion goose smiling from ear to ear…. feathers! Lots and lots of feathers…on jackets, on dresses and on skirts. It was a darkly coloured feather love-in and it worked and will be worked on numerous big names to come, I have no doubt.
The show ended with gowns that featured sheer panelling and floral beaded accents that made it look as if the models were the character Poison Ivy. Ok, I know what you are thinking and with that comparison I know it doesn’t sound like a positive review but it is a compliment indeed as these dresses were gorgeous and constructed so elegantly that it looks as if the dress is actually a part of the model rather than a garment worn for mere minutes on the catwalk.
Watch the complete show here: